Since the widely publicized “restaurant renaissance” of the 1970s, this
                        culturally and ethnically diverse city has offered restaurants for every taste
                       and pocketbook.
                       The most recent area of restaurant
                        development is in the funky Old City neighborhood. Another popular area is
                        the Rittenhouse Square District, which is blessed with an abundance of
                        fine restaurants. 
                        South Philadelphia, where most of the city’s huge Italian population
                        resides, abounds with great Italian restaurants (and is the source of the
                        original Philadelphia cheesesteak). Chinatown has three to five Asian
                        restaurants per block—Thai and Vietnamese as well as Chinese. The
                        neighborhood around the Italian Market has also given rise to a crop of
                        Asian restaurants, between 9th and 11th on Washington Avenue. Around
                        the University of Pennsylvania there’s another wealth of ethnic
                        establishments (Indian, Thai, Mexican, Japanese). 

                        Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner
                        for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ =
                        US$10-US$20; $$$ = US$20-US$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50. 

                        BEST IN TOWN 

                      Le Bec-Fin—Nearly every culinary award has been given to this superior
                        French restaurant and its chef/owner, Georges Perrier. Menus change
                        seasonally; they might include saddle of rabbit stuffed with tomatoes and
                        olives, or filet of veal with wild morels. The ornate dining room boasts
                        crystal chandeliers. Reservations must be made two to three weeks in
                        advance; you’ll be advised of two seatings for both lunch Monday-Friday
                        and dinner Monday-Saturday; closed Sundays. Lunch and dinner are prix
                        fixe—lunch for one US$36, dinner US$102, excluding drinks and tip. $$$$.
                        Most major credit cards. 1523 Walnut St., phone 215-567-1000. 

                        Le Bar Lyonnais—Downstairs at the same address as Le Bec-Fin
                        (above), classic bistro-style French cuisine in a less formal setting. No
                        reservations. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1523 Walnut St., phone
                        215-567-1000. 

                        Deux Cheminees—“Two Fireplaces,” classic French restaurant in two
                        adjoining town houses (formerly the Princeton Club) with blazing fireplaces
                        in all rooms during the chilly season. Owner and chef de cuisine Fritz
                        Blank visits each table to answer questions and hear suggestions.
                        Signature dish is Veloute Crab Marguerite, a cream-based hot crab soup,
                        laced with Scotch whiskey. In season, the venison steaks are prized.
                        Open Tuesday-Saturday from 5:30 pm. Reservations imperative. $$$$.
                        Most major credit cards. 1221 Locust St., phone 215-790-0200. 

                        Opus 251—Tucked into the Art Alliance on stylish Rittenhouse Square.
                        Alfonso Contrisciani, one of the youngest of the 54 master chefs in the
                        U.S., prepares a mix of Mediterranean and Asian-influenced dishes,
                        emphasizing regional seasonal ingredients. The bouillabaisse is a
                        specialty. A sophisticated and elegant place, with an outdoor garden.
                        Lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Tuesday-Thursday
                        5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm; Sunday 4:30-8:30 pm. $$$. Most
                        major credit cards. 251 S. 18th St., phone 215-735-6787. 

                        Striped Bass—With its stunning Casablanca decor, this restaurant and
                        its menu took the city by storm. Chef Alison Thurber produces such
                        dishes as ginger-crusted king salmon with Pinot Noir blackberry sauce
                        and kasu-marinated Chilean sea bass. Open Monday-Thursday 11:30
                        am-2:30 pm and 5-11 pm; Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-11:30 pm;
                        Saturday 5-11:30 pm; Sunday 11 am-2:30 pm and 5-10 pm (no Sunday
                        lunch in the summer). Reservations (imperative) are hard to come by.
                        $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1500 Walnut St., phone 215-732-4444. 

                      Fountain Restaurant—In the Four Seasons Hotel. Elegant international
                        cuisine, with a la carte and prix-fixe selections at dinner. Consistently
                        rated among the best in the U.S. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and
                        Sunday brunch—a most expansive (and waist-expanding) occasion that
                        draws gourmands from as far away as New York. Open Monday-Saturday
                        6:30-10 am, 11:30 am-2:15 pm and 6-10:30 pm; Sunday 11 am-2:15 pm.
                        Reservations essential. $$$$. Most major credit cards. The adjoining
                        Swann Cafe offers afternoon tea Monday-Saturday 3-5 pm and a live jazz
                        trio on Friday and Saturday evenings. One Logan Square (18th and
                        Benjamin Franklin Parkway), phone 215-963-1500. 

                        HOT AND TRENDY 

                      Fork—One of the city’s freshest eateries, Fork is both sophisticated and
                        urbane, a stylish American bistro with a lively bar, frequented by equally
                        stylish locals. Fork is the place to bring a client who appreciates the
                        offbeat and artsy. The cuisine is an amalgam of American, Asian and
                        Mediterranean—you’ll be tempted by the likes of grilled coriander shrimp
                        and poached salmon dumplings. Just 48 seats, so reservations are
                        recommended. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner
                        Sunday-Wednesday 5:30-10:30 pm; Thursday-Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm;
                        brunch Sunday 11 am-2:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 306 Market
                        St., phone 215-625-9435. 

                        Brasserie Perrier—A new take on modern bistro cuisine from Le
                        Bec-Fin’s owner Georges Perrier. The menu reflects a marriage of French,
                        Italian and Asian cuisines. Specialties include yellowfin tuna sashimi and
                        roasted breast of free-range chicken with braised cabbage. The bar is a
                        see-and-be-seen emporium. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm;
                        dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-11 pm. Most major credit cards. $$$. 1619
                        Walnut St., phone 215-568-3000. 

                        Rococo—A vast space with plenty of color; a long, active bar; snappy
                        service; and gargantuan portions. When you’ve adjusted to the upbeat
                        tempo, focus on trendy entrees like crabcakes with Asian salad and
                        wasabi chips or chicken pesto pizza. Finish off with the banana cream
                        torte. Located in a former corn exchange, Rococo teems with young
                        professionals who drop in for a meal that won’t bust their wallets—most
                        entrees come in under US$20. Monday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and
                        Saturday 5 pm-midnight, Sunday 5-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards.
                        123 Chestnut St. Phone 215-629-1100. 

                      Buddakan—Equal parts Zen and Fifth Avenue, Buddakan is an
                        Asian-themed restaurant notable for its large, gold-leafed meditating
                        Buddha. Foods of Japan, Vietnam, India, China and Thailand are
                        interwoven into inventive culinary creations. All dishes are designed to be
                        shared and are served, Chinatown style, whenever they come out of the
                        kitchen. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-11
                        pm, Friday-Saturday 5 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. 325
                        Chestnut St., phone 215-574-9440. 

                        LOCAL FAVORITES 

                      DiNardo’s Famous Crabs—Long-time favorite in Old City, renowned for
                        steamed hard-shell crabs, but also offering a full line of fresh broiled or
                        grilled seafood. Entire menu available for take-out. Monday-Thursday 11:30
                        am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 3-9 pm.
                        Reservations for six or more. $$. Most major credit cards. 312 Race St.,
                        phone 215-925-5115. 

                        Azafran—Caracas-born owner Susanna Goihman brings a Nuevo Latino
                        sensibility to dishes like grilled salmon, brightened with a flavorful orange
                        and beet sauce, or chicken “steak” with arugula and tomatoes. This
                        low-key place is cozy (32 seats) and relaxed; expect a wait on weekends.
                        Bring your own spirits. Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday
                        5-11 pm, Sunday 4:30-9:30 pm. Cash only; credit cards not accepted. $$.
                        617 S. 3rd St. (just north of Bainbridge), phone 215-928-4019. 

                        White Dog Cafe—This hip bistro draws an international crowd from
                        nearby Penn and Drexel Universities—a bustling mix of professors, grad
                        students and neighborhood locals. Against a funky backdrop, you can
                        enjoy regional and international cuisine, with specialties like
                        Caribbean-grilled mahimahi and curry-roasted vegetables with Indian
                        cheese dumplings. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner
                        Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm; Friday and Saturday till 11 pm, Sunday
                        5-9:30 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 3420 Sansom St., phone
                        215-386-9224. 

                      Friday Saturday Sunday—A perennial neighborhood favorite off
                        Rittenhouse Square, with a friendly yet romantic feel and well-prepared
                        American cuisine. The upstairs Tank Bar is a popular meeting place.
                        Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm (closed Monday in the
                        summer), Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations
                        advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 261 S. 21st St., phone
                        215-546-4232. 

                        Reading Terminal Market—This converted train station offers cheap
                        lunches from a wide range of ethnic territory—a good place to go when one
                        in your group feels like seafood, another wants a hoagie and a third yearns
                        for Middle Eastern. Tables and chairs provided. Open Monday-Saturday 8
                        am-6 pm. $. No credit cards. 12th and Arch Streets, phone 215-922-2317. 

                        Jim’s Steaks—The art-deco, cafeteria-style setting is just right for
                        sampling that native delicacy, the Philadelphia cheesesteak: thinly sliced
                        beef grilled and served on a long Italian roll with melted cheese and
                        accompaniments. Monday-Thursday 10 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday 10
                        am-3 am, Sunday noon-10 pm. $. No credit cards. 400 South St., phone
                        215-928-1911. 

                        Pat’s King of Steaks—A cafeteria known for its famous Philly
                        cheesesteaks. Eat in or take out. Open daily, 24 hours. $. No credit
                        cards. 9th and Passyunk Streets, phone 215-468-1546. 

                        FRENCH AND ITALIAN

                        Restaurant Ciboulette—Provencal cuisine, elegantly prepared and
                        served. Coat and tie suggested. Monday-Thursday 5:30-9 pm, Friday and
                        Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations advisable. $$$. Most major credit
                        cards. In the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue at Broad and Walnut
                        Streets, phone 215-790-1210. 

                      Caribou Cafe—No coat-and-tie elegance—just an authentic French cafe
                        where patrons relax as if on the Left Bank, reading, conversing and
                        listening to music. Open Sunday-Thursday 10:30 am-midnight, Friday and
                        Saturday 10:30 am-2 am. Reservations needed for six or more. $. Most
                        major credit cards. 1126 Walnut St., phone 215-625-9535. 

                        Toto—Landmark, elaborately furnished restaurant, specializing in Northern
                        Italian cuisine. Coat and tie suggested. Open Monday-Friday 11:45 am-2
                        pm (closed for lunch in the summer) and 5:30-9 pm (cafe menu served to
                        10 pm), Saturday 5:30-10 pm (cafe menu served to 11 pm). Reservations
                        advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1407 Locust St. (across from the
                        Academy of Music), phone 215-546-2000. 

                      ASIAN 

                      Susanna Foo—The most elegant Chinese restaurant in the city is not in
                        Chinatown but in the heart of the business district, three blocks from City
                        Hall. The chef/owner has been called one of the outstanding chefs in the
                        country. She specializes in imaginative seafood dishes, such as sizzling
                        squirrel bass with gingered scallions and caramelized sweet-and-sour
                        sauce. Desserts are more French than Chinese. Banquet facilities
                        available. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner
                        Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday
                        5-9 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1512 Walnut
                        St., phone 215-545-2666. 

                      Le Colonial—Ceiling fans, rattan furniture and period decor set the mood
                        at this stylish ode to French-Vietnamese cuisine. Appetizers include bo
                        bia, a salad roll with sweet bean sauce. An outstanding main course is ca
                        chien Saigon, a whole red snapper seared and served with a spicy,
                        sweet-and-sour sauce. Upstairs, an oh-so-chic cocktail lounge harks back
                        to old Saigon. Sunday and Monday 5-10 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 5-11 pm,
                        Friday and Saturday till 11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1623
                        Walnut St., phone 215-851-1623. 

                        Imperial Inn—In Chinatown (close to the convention center). Cantonese,
                        Szechuan and Mandarin dishes, plus authentic dim sum. Cocktails.
                        Sunday-Thursday 11 am-12:30 am, Friday and Saturday 11 am-2 am. Dim
                        sum daily 11 am to 3 pm. Reservations advised. $. Most major credit
                        cards. 142 N. 10th St., phone 215-627-5588. 

                        Ho Sai Gai—Specialties include Beijing duck, Hunan chicken and
                        seafood, and dim sum. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-4 am, Saturday 11
                        am-5 am, Sunday 10:30 am-4 am. Dim sum served Monday-Saturday 11
                        am-3 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-3 pm. No reservations needed. $$. Most
                        major credit cards. 10th and Cherry Streets, phone 215-925-8384. 

                        Thai Garden East—Features Thai steamed dumpling and Cho Chee
                        duck. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm, Friday 11:30 am-3
                        pm and 5-11 pm, Saturday noon-11 pm, Sunday noon-10 pm.
                        Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 101 N. 11th St.,
                        phone 215-629-9939. 

                        ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES 

                        Circa—Set in a refurbished bank building. Dine on the main floor in a
                        large, elegantly decorated “bank lobby” or in the lockbox/bank vault, which
                        has been converted into a cozy dining area. Imaginative entrees include
                        tobiko-crusted diver scallops and grilled chicken with tomato-lime relish
                        and jack cheese. Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Wednesday
                        5-10 pm, Thursday-Saturday 5-11 pm (dancing Friday and Saturday 11
                        pm-2 am), Sunday 4:30-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $-$$. Most
                        major credit cards. 1518 Walnut St., phone 215-545-6800. 

                        City Tavern—This faithful rendition of an 18th-century tavern features
                        authentic colonial cooking, homebaked breads and pastries and costumed
                        waiters and waitresses to get you in the spirit of 1776. A true Philadelphia
                        experience. The turkey pot pie is outstanding. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-10
                        pm, Saturday 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-8 pm. $$$. Most
                        major credit cards. 138 S. 2nd St., phone 215-413-1443. 

                      Grill Room at the Ritz-Carlton—Substantial portions of superbly
                        prepared food served in understated opulence. Standards include prime
                        aged beef, veal chops and steamed lobster, as well as seasonal
                        innovations. Their signature dessert, raspberry creme brulee, is superb.
                        Outstanding wine list. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, daily 5:30-10 pm,
                        Sunday breakfast 6:30-11 am. Reservations. $$$. Most major credit cards.
                        17th and Chestnut Streets at Liberty Place, phone 215-563-1600. 

                      Moshulu—The historic Moshulu, a four-masted sailing ship, has been
                        restored to an elegant turn-of-the-century restaurant. Menu is varied—Thai,
                        French, Italian—with such specialties as rack of lamb, ostrich and
                        shellfish dishes. Upper decks open in warmer weather. Open year round.
                        $$$. Most major credit cards. Pier 34, 735 S. Columbus Blvd., phone
                        215-923-2500. 

                        BREAKFAST/LATE NIGHT 

                        Down Home Diner—In the Reading Terminal Market, terrific country
                        breakfasts—everything made from produce sold at the on-site Italian
                        Market. A former chef at Le Bec-Fin, Jack McDavid, oversees the
                        buttermilk biscuits, venison sausage and homemade ketchup. Lunch and
                        dinner served as well. Monday-Saturday 7 am-9 pm. $. No credit cards.
                        12th and Arch Streets, phone 215-627-1955. 

                        Rouge 98—This intimate, 50-seat cafe on Rittenhouse Square, the first to
                        offer outside dining, is a haven of chic—all done up in shades of rose and
                        chocolate. From its Klimt-inspired mirrors to its seared salmon with lobster
                        mashed potatoes and red-wine lobster sauce, Rouge 98 is a bistro-lounge
                        worth discovering. The drinks are pricey. Lunch daily noon-4:30 pm; dinner
                        Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm-1:30 am, Sunday and Monday 5 pm-12:30 am.
                        $$. 205 S. 18th St., phone 215-732-6622. 

                        Oberon—Comfort food for the intelligentsia. The cuisine is boldly flavored,
                        yet simple: a stuffed swordfish dish from Sicily; an Alsatian roast chicken
                        bathed in a glaze of cider vinegar, Reisling wine and tomato puree; a steak
                        with pomme frites. The menu is a la carte and reasonable—it’s the US$7
                        martinis that will run up the bill. The restaurant’s inside/outside front tables
                        near the bar are ideal for Old City people watching, martini sipping and
                        oyster slurping (the restaurant also has a raw bar). Lunch is served daily
                        11:30 am-5 pm; dinner till midnight Sunday-Thursday, till 2 am Friday and
                        Saturday. $$. Most major credit cards. 126 Chestnut St., phone
                        215-629-8337. 

`                      COFFEEHOUSES 
 

                        La Colombe—This elegant, European-feeling cafe, which supplies its own
                        beans to fine restaurants in town, serves its brews in beautiful, flowered
                        china. Delicious French pastries also available. Monday-Friday 7:30
                        am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-6:30 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm. $. No
                        credit cards. 130 S. 19th St. (off Rittenhouse Square), phone
                        215-563-0860. 

                        Xando—New York doesn’t have the market cornered on hipster coffee
                        bars, as both locations of Xando testify. Comfy couches are ideal for
                        spooning with your babe or people watching in this mostly slacker crowd.
                        Liquor (after 4 pm) and all manner of coffees, pastries and light fare are
                        served. Daily 6:30 am-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. 235 S. 15th St.
                        (at Locust), phone 215-893-9696, and 4th and Chestnut Streets, phone
                        215-399-0215. 

                        Old City Coffee—Roasts its own coffee, and neighborhood regulars swear
                        by it. Full line of coffee specialties, plus soup (at lunch), bagels and other
                        baked goods. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-5:30 pm,
                        Sunday 9 am-3 pm. $. No credit cards. 221 Church St. (in the historic
                        district), phone 215-629-9292. (Old City also has a coffee bar in the
                        Reading Terminal Market. Monday-Saturday 8 am-6 pm. Phone
                        215-592-1897.)

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